Practical Tips

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  • greasybob
    Senior Member
    • May 2008
    • 1590

    #31
    What's a guy to do ? Changing a fuel pump on a rusty Chevy. The quick connects aren't coming apart. Cut the steel lines off of the old pump and replace the quick connect with the fuel line repair kit. Any objections to using the repair kit in such a fashion ? Any bad experiences repairing the plastic fuel lines ?
    Attached Files
    Last edited by greasybob; 02-25-2017, 08:39 AM.

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    • Robin
      Junior Member
      • Oct 2014
      • 24

      #32
      Have done quite a few. So far so good.
      This has really saved us a few times!

      Comment

      • Witsend
        Banned
        • Nov 2012
        • 2942

        #33
        What's a guy to do ? Changing a fuel pump on a rusty Chevy. The quick connects aren't coming apart. Cut the steel lines off of the old pump and replace the quick connect with the fuel line repair kit. Any objections to using the repair kit in such a fashion ? Any bad experiences repairing the plastic fuel lines
        I got to see if I can get a repair kit for Ford metal style one that you use the disconnect tool .Have one that is froze to the inlet of fuel filter on an Explorer. I always try to avoid going with the aftermarket fuel filters that are not made out of the OE stainless steel construction

        anchor pot
        When I built my shop I put 4 of these in under each lift for pulling things like lower control arms when I do cv axles. I have chains made up to go from front to back and from corner to corner and can pull things in the center of vehicle if needed. these can be added in to existing floor if you have some one with a core drill bore holes in the existing floor.
        IMO As far as the anchor pot location in the floor to pull lower control arms downward. I think the natural arc movement of the control arm downward would dictate that the anchor be more centrally located inboard of the ball joint to lessen chance of vehicle movement to the side or overloading the lift arm

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        • Witsend
          Banned
          • Nov 2012
          • 2942

          #34
          How I got a ring off gal's swollen finger

          Her finger was badly swollen and appeared to be starting to turn purple. There was no way it was going to come off without cutting the ring and it looked like I would have to drive to emergency room, but I was already having a beer and didn't feel like driving so grabbed some lube, some mini cutting pliers, a small blade screw driver , a circlip pliers, and a die grinder with a small grinding tip I thought be too risky to use.
          The trick was to work the lube around the ring, then rotate the ring so the wider face of the ring faces down. Then with the mini Nipper style pliers just cut the ring. The metal seemed pretty soft and cut pretty easy. Spread it with a small flat blade screw driver, then opened the divide further with the circlip pliers. Think I saved driving a gal to emergency room and having a situation getting over analyzed.
          Attached Files

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          • dodge90
            Senior Member
            • Oct 2014
            • 164

            #35
            fuel line

            Greasy, I use that kit all the time to repair fuel lines. awesome kit, a lot better than the dorman kit I had and havn't had a problem yet.
            I've tried and tried, but can't seem to fix stupid!

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            • greasybob
              Senior Member
              • May 2008
              • 1590

              #36
              The press fit wheel bearing. We've all been there before, you press out the drive flange and the inner race is stuck and needs to be removed before you press it all back together. I have bearing splitters and all sorts of pullers but that's too messing around. Just cut a grove into the race with a cut off wheel and split it the rest off the way with a chisel, it slides right off. B-e-a-utiful. Much quicker, works on all bearings that you aren't saving.
              Attached Files

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              • Witsend
                Banned
                • Nov 2012
                • 2942

                #37
                Push a disabled car out of shop without axles?

                If there are 2 of these HF FWD bearing kits in shop, bet you could probably use the screw parts of these kits with the large nuts, washers and correct size adapter to serve as Dummy joints to keep the front hub and bearings together to move a car a short distance with out the axle shafts and free up your lift if a vehicle is going to be down for awhile.Just make sure on certain cars to check for any wheel speed sensors where the protruding tips could get compromised
                Attached Files

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                • Witsend
                  Banned
                  • Nov 2012
                  • 2942

                  #38
                  A Beater Totter ?

                  Need to keep a lower control arm down the easy way? a chain around it that you can put a decent bolt through the links and a nut on the other end beneath the arm get a big *** slate bar or Torsion bar beneath it with one end on the cradle and you got serious leverage to get the ball joint stud to come out of the knuckles. Need to pull the arm down to guide the stud back in you don't break a sweat . I even sit on the bar if I'm working with car on stands. I put a 2 by four across to sit on so my big ole fat rhoid twerkin @zz don't swallow the bar.

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                  • Witsend
                    Banned
                    • Nov 2012
                    • 2942

                    #39
                    oops forgot to post pic
                    Attached Files

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                    • greasybob
                      Senior Member
                      • May 2008
                      • 1590

                      #40
                      Replacing a PATS module on a Ford and need 2 keys to do the Parameter Reset but you only have 1 ? No problem, just detatch the PATS transceiver from the column and place any compatible PATS key inside of it and shield it with a steel plate from the one good key that fits the ignition when adding the second key. Do the same when you have to cycle both keys, first hold the transceiver next to the key in the ignition then put the second key in the middle and shield it from the first and cycle the ignition for the second time. I just replaced the BCM on a 2013 F150 using this method and it worked !!!!
                      Attached Files

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                      • Witsend
                        Banned
                        • Nov 2012
                        • 2942

                        #41
                        Replacing a PATS module on a Ford and need 2 keys to do the Parameter Reset but you only have 1 ? No problem, just detatch the PATS transceiver from the column and place any compatible PATS key inside of it and shield it with a steel plate from the one good key that fits the ignition when adding the second key. Do the same when you have to cycle both keys, first hold the transceiver next to the key in the ignition then put the second key in the middle and shield it from the first and cycle the ignition for the second time. I just replaced the BCM on a 2013 F150 using this method and it worked !!!!
                        Good Idea, If you do enough of these, You could just turn the working key to on position and just pop the existing key cylinder out in 2 seconds inserting a pick through a hole in the lower trim panel inset a spare key cylinder (W/O) tumblers in it that you can insert any key cut or uncut and program the key to work. If it don't work, don't get it cut, so you be able to return blank as unused if it doesn't work, because you didn't have it cut
                        Last edited by Witsend; 04-25-2017, 07:39 PM.

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                        • Witsend
                          Banned
                          • Nov 2012
                          • 2942

                          #42
                          The Hubs will thank you

                          If you are installing new rotors and don't want to be heating and beating stubborn ones (especially larger stubborn truck with a big hammer, Take a reciprocating saw ( a portable band saw is even better).
                          Cut through the rotor as close as possible to the hub, (you'll be surprised how fast a good metal cutting blade can cut through the soft cast iron) turn it 180 degrees and repeat on the opposite side. One or two light smacks and they crack in half releasing the rust bonds.
                          Might save a Hub (or causing other collateral damage ).
                          Last edited by Witsend; 04-26-2017, 09:43 AM.

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                          • greasybob
                            Senior Member
                            • May 2008
                            • 1590

                            #43
                            Bigger hammer ? Old F150 ? Gives great satisfaction !!!

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                            • greasybob
                              Senior Member
                              • May 2008
                              • 1590

                              #44
                              Some times a bigger hammer isn't always best. 2013 RAM 4500 Dually, the rear wheels won't budge. First I used a chisel and a wedge to get the outside wheels off. A few swings with the big hammer and I thought there's got to be a better way to get the inside wheels off. Port-A-power to the rescue After you got one wheel loose remove the rust, lube it and put the lugnuts on to push the other side.
                              Attached Files

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                              • diesel71
                                Senior Member
                                • Feb 2008
                                • 921

                                #45
                                good tip. thanks bob

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